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Bittornado

Stereodude wrote:
Bittornado wrote:
While being on the subject... any tips for getting those beasts + some Catalysts one floor up via stairs without hiring very expensive human movers, risking dropping the gear down the stairs or throwing my back and becoming an invalid?!

Get something like this, or this, and find a friend.

LOL!
I do have a couple of good friends, unfortunately all of them with extremely bad backs! Also I used to have one of those strappy thingies... bought in in Germany once I was visiting the country. What I learned about them was that they do not make the item any "lighter", of course they do redistribute the wight so the sholders carry more, but they also makes it very difficult to balance the object correctly. They're useful moving heavy objects around horizontally, but carrying upstairs becomes a whole another matter...

/B.
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MikeDuke
My theater is on the second floor.  I have about 13 steps with an elbow turn.  When Mark installed my sub he just flipped the box upstairs.  It was no problem for him and the sub was fine.  I don't know how many stairs you have but you might just want to try that.  And from what I am told, the packing is even better now then it was when I got my sub.
I simply love this stuff.
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Bittornado

MikeDuke wrote:
My theater is on the second floor.  I have about 13 steps with an elbow turn.  When Mark installed my sub he just flipped the box upstairs.  It was no problem for him and the sub was fine.  I don't know how many stairs you have but you might just want to try that.  And from what I am told, the packing is even better now then it was when I got my sub.

God bless you Mike! This was the best news ever! If Mark flips over the whole box upstairs, so shall we!!!
I have 14 steps and the turn at the middle is quite wide so as long as the packeting can take being flipped over I guess I'll be fine then.

Thank you very much for the hint!

(Gym training next!)
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getech
Is there much impact engaging the program button (depress) on the Submersive?  I'm not sure I can hear the difference.


Greg
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Hudda
getech wrote:
Is there much impact engaging the program button (depress) on the Submersive?  I'm not sure I can hear the difference.




I think so.  Don't forget you have to have the Program Select button in the "out" position and you have to turn off the sub and turn it back on (power cycle).

Chris
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getech
Ultimately though I should have the prg. button pushed in though right?  So turn off the submersive, depress button then power on?

Thanks!

Greg
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Mark_Seaton
getech wrote:
Ultimately though I should have the prg. button pushed in though right?  So turn off the submersive, depress button then power on?

Thanks!


Correct.  The DSP program only loads at power on.  The switch position when it powers on determines the program which is loaded.  Pressing the PGM SEL button while playing has no effect.  For those reading along, please note this currently only applies to the SubMersive HP.

The "in" position has the frequency response of the original SubMersive seen in the first post of this thread.  When you power up in the "out" position, the low frequencies are shelved up about 3.5dB such that they make for an outdoor +/-3dB window of 15-200Hz vs. the 19-200Hz of the IN response.
Mark Seaton
Seaton Sound, Inc.
sales@seatonsound.net
773-290-8436
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getech
I can't imagine that my pair of submersives could sound any better....I've always had the program button un-depressed since I've owned them!  I will try them out today with the button depressed.

Thanks all for your help!

Greg
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Mark_Seaton
If the switch is OUT, you get the 15Hz extension.  Depending on the size of your room and the listening level, the 19Hz mode (button IN) can be a bit tighter, more nible sounding with the 15Hz mode having more weight/scale to it.  Be sure to play around with small level adjustments to the sub channel with either, as broad band changes are more sensitive.

Enjoy,

Mark Seaton
Seaton Sound, Inc.
sales@seatonsound.net
773-290-8436
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phansson
Hey Mark, very happy so far with the new SubM! It sounds incredible. I do have a couple of questions.

What do most customers do about the lack of auto on/off? Is it a problem to leave it on all the time?

Also, I have never owned "opposing" speakers. Where do you feel the best place to start with placement is in a room? I have messed around with it quite a bit and the best spot I could find was front right hand corner of the room, with one sub parallel to the wall and the other facing the room. Giving the one sub against the wall about 4" of breathing room? Any other suggestions?
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Bunga999

Welcome to the Seaton family

I have my SubM pretty much where you have yours.  Mine is in the right/front of the room about 3.5ft away from the closest corner.  One woofer fires into that corner and the other fires into the room/other rooms.  My SubMersive is 5in away from the parallel front wall as well.  I think it worked out really well for me but you may need to try other locations just to see if there might be a better spot in your room.  My SubM Hp is on all the time with no issues and I only power it off and unplug it when we have a bad thunder/lightning storm here in FL.

Here's a quote from Mark on the AVS SubMersive thread that may help with your other question:

Mark Seaton;16379147 wrote:
You only need about 3" from the face of the driver to the wall for spacing.  You can gain another 5/8" if you remove the grill.  In my own system I usually have the amplifier facing the side wall with the long 24" dimension of the footprint running front-back.  Also remember that in many homes you will have >1/2" for a baseboard or molding at the floor line, and you only need that 2.5-3" from the wall.  The twist-locking (PowerCon) power connection and XLR connector protrude 2" from the box.

There is currently no auto standby mode on the SubMersive or other powered products I offer.  It is something I'm looking at for tweaks far ahead, but the idle power is 10-15W, which is less than many subwoofers draw when in "standby."  I prefer true-off switching, where a 12V triggered outlet is the best way to make for zero idle consumption.  There are some inexpensive remote power strips which can be used if you prefer, or for ~$100 you can get the Niles or Xantech 12V triggered power blocks.  It is perfectly safe to switch the power line with the amplifier left on.  The only consequence is generally a slightly louder "thunk" when the power is cut but no difference at power up.




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Sean_W_Smith
Get a switched power outlet.   The subM consumes a little over 20 watts which is a big issue for me in california, I measured my numbers directly on 3 different amps and they do not match mark's 10-15 watt estimates but mine are REAL measurements not estimates.  I turn mine off manually.  Wish I had a better solution.  The switched power strip solution doesn't work well with my room layout.

Sean

Silicon Valley, CA and Huntsville, UT

and Formerly Raleigh, NC. Loving the mild weather, hating the cost of EVERYTHING!
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calentz
I am waiting for two 240V HP amps. I am now using a 30 amp switched 240v circuit on the older manually configured amps. I am also using a 115V switched circuit for my surround amps. The amp circuits are all controlled by my Integra DHC-80.2.
Carl 
Carl
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FOH
If one's concerned about idle consumption, wouldn't you be much better off utilizing either the unit's power switch, or a switched outlet? I wouldn't trust a solid state relay due to voltage drop and eventual failures. Now they do fail closed, however it's my understanding that SSR's possess a small degree of voltage drop/current limiting,... inherent to their design.

Good luck   
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calentz
FOH wrote:
If one's concerned about idle consumption, wouldn't you be much better off utilizing either the unit's power switch, or a switched outlet? I wouldn't trust a solid state relay due to voltage drop and eventual failures. Now they do fail closed, however it's my understanding that SSR's possess a small degree of voltage drop/current limiting,... inherent to their design.
Good luck   

The Integra controls a small solid state relay. It in-turn controls the 1st NEMA size 2 contactor. (For the 120V devices) The 1st contactor controls the 2nd (240V) contactor which is used for the Seatons. (No solid state relay directly controls the equipment)
Carl

 

Carl
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FOH

Very nice

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JimP

Mark,

 

I'm interested in the submersive and would like to ask if what I would need to do is counter to the health of the submersive subwoofer.

 

I currently have one of my front main speakers on top of a subwoofer.  Have to have it there to avoid having speakers/subs in the opening into the kitchen.  The speaker is 53 lbs.    Would there be any problem in placing  this 53 lb speaker on top of a submersive?   Any potential for damage to a submersive?

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calentz
JimP wrote:
Mark,

I'm interested in the submersive and would like to ask if what I would need to do is counter to the health of the submersive subwoofer.

I currently have one of my front main speakers on top of a subwoofer.  Have to have it there to avoid having speakers/subs in the opening into the kitchen.  The speaker is 53 lbs.    Would there be any problem in placing  this 53 lb speaker on top of a submersive?   Any potential for damage to a submersive?

The Cat12Cs that I have on top of my two SubMs are >100lbs.

Carl
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Bunga999

As Calentz already mentioned there is no issue at all.  I have a ~50lbs speaker on top of my SubMersive too.  As a matter of fact, the SubMersive design makes it inert and is probably one of only a few subwoofers that won’t vibrate when playing extremely loud.   Check out this Video.

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