I wanted to quickly pull out and pin some quick setup instructions I had posted a few months back.  I'll be having James help me pull together similar for other products and integrate it into a more formal manual.  In the mean time I will continue to add to this thread.

Below are a few pointers based on calls or e-mails I've received that I will add to as I can and see a need:

Connection & Level:
  1. The blue power connector must be twisted clockwise until metal tab is at 12 o'clock and clicks into place.  Power will not flow if the PowerCon connector is not locked in place.
  2. "VOLUME" knob is labeled as negative dB with 0dB attenuation as maximum gain.  Clockwise is louder, counter clockwise is quieter.  This is similar to most receiver volume controls which read out negative dB levels (relative to a calibrated reference).  For most systems I've found -16 to -10dB a typically useful starting point to adjust from.  Your SubMersive can deliver as much output at 0dB as it can at -30dB or lower.  -30dB just requires about 30x the input signal level (from preamp or EQ) to produce the same bass output as at 0dB.  Some systems require a 0dB setting, others require -36dB, both can be correct for your system.
  3. An SPL meter or other measurement system is strongly recommended for setting or checking the subwoofer and speaker levels.  For any subwoofer you use, it is preferred for the receiver/preamp subwoofer channel levels to be at 0dB or lower.  If you start with the SubMersive's Level control at -16dB and find that the matching/preferred subwoofer level in the receiver/preamp's subwoofer channel is higher than zero you can raise the level on the SubMersive and then lower the preamp's level the same amount.  i.e. if the preamp needs to be at +6dB for the subwoofer, you can turn the level knob clockwise to -10dB and reduce the preamp level to 0dB and you will observe the same playback levels.
  4. There is no single correct level setting for all systems!  If that were the case we wouldn't have a dial.   Appropriate settings from one room and system to another can easily be 15-30dB apart.
  5. For those using an RCA output from a receiver or preamp see RCA-XLR connection details at the bottom of this post.
Switches and settings (for SubMersives and HP versions with serial numbers starting with SM1H or SM1D):
  1. There are 2 push button switches to the left of the XLR connectors.  These are 2 position switches (IN/OUT).  Start with both switches at their IN (depressed) position.
  2. The top switch/button labeled "MUTE" or "SW1" is available for troubleshooting or setup as a simple MUTE function.  This should be set to the IN position for use (OUT mutes the signal to the amplifier module).  It is packed with the switch depressed (IN), but can be occasionally pressed while handling or unpacking.  This mute switch takes effect AFTER the signal LED.
  3. The lower switch/button labeled "PGM SEL" or "SW2" allows the selection of DSP program. *Pressing this switch while the sub is already on has no effect.* To eliminate the chance of loading problems the DSP program only loads when the SubMersive is powered on.  To select the original frequency response (recommended starting point for most) check the switch/button is at the IN position when you flip the power switch to on.  To change to the extended response set the switch/button to OUT, turn the power off for 3-5 seconds and switch it back on.
  4. PGM SEL/SW2 set to IN (program 1) = original SubMersive response: +/-3dB 19-200Hz
  5. PGM SEL/SW2 set to OUT (program 2) = secondary, extended SubMersive HP response: +/-3dB 15-200Hz.  While at first glance it sounds like this response extends lower, the real difference is a uniform lifting of the response by ~3.5dB below 20Hz tapering to equal response of program 1 above ~50Hz.
  6. Most rooms under 3500-4000 cu.ft. with solid walls and only hallway/walkway openings will see in-room response extending to 8-14Hz with program 1, and this is the recommended starting point which will also provide greater punch, kick and intensity.
  7. Program 2 is intended for large and very leaky rooms, and for those who want to add some additional lift to the lowest frequencies.  Those who most often listen below a calibrated -10 to -15 dB main volume setting may enjoy the added low frequency energy depending on the interaction with your SubMersive HP's placement and your listening position in the room.
LED indicators:
  1. PWR (green) LED:  Normally green when the amplifier is plugged in and main switch is on.  If not coming on, check that the blue power connector is locked in.
  2. CLIP (amber) LED:  With the HP amplifier I don't expect anyone to ever see this light other than possibly a flash at power up.   Flashing will happen at high levels with the original SubMersive.  You aren't hurting your SubMersive, but if this is brightly lit, headroom is nearing its limits.
  3. PROT (red) LED (Original SubMersive ONLY):  Typically this will engage in cases of over current or over heating.  Sound will mute when illuminated.  It should reset in a few seconds.  If not cycle power.  If problems persist, contact for troubleshooting. 
  4. PROT (red) LED (HP Amplifier ONLY) 
  • 1 Flash (~10x then stops) indicates no connection on the safety ground or a reversed phase/neutral wiring.  Check wall outlet wiring.
  • 2 Flashes (repeats) indicates a GFI trip.
  • 3 Flashes (repeats) indicates Overheating
  • 4 Flashes (repeats) indicates an internal fault or DC output protection - contact us to troubleshoot.
  • 5 Flashes (repeats) indicates power line over Voltage
  • 6 Flashes (repeats) indicates power line under Voltage
     5.  SIGNAL (green) LED:  Indicates input signal (at XLR) before the LEVEL control and mute switch.  This allows you to visually confirm the amplifier is receiving a signal, and reads the same with the level at 0dB or -infinity as well as when the mute switch(SW1) is engaged (out).  This will flash with the signal under normal operation.

For those looking for custom length power cords with the blue PowerCon connectors these can be ordered from many different pro audio, studio and broadcast suppliers.  Markertek is a good source for these as can be found here:

The XLR cables I use, recommend, and stock for customers to order with their subwoofer or speaker are Markertek's house brand TecNec Premium Canare Star Quad XLR w/black-gold Neutrik connectors.  You can find the standard (silver color) connectors for a little less also at Markertek.

RCA-XLR connection:
For connection with RCA subwoofer outputs on a receiver, preamp or EQ, I prefer to use the included XLR-RCA adapter at the source (receiver, preamp or EQ) and then run the full length to the SubMersive with an ideally shielded cable.  If you ever upgrade to a device with an XLR subwoofer output, you simply remove the adapter and plug in.  Other than being less susceptible to noise, this falls in the category of a better connection, not making any huge sonic difference.  The adapter supplied can work at either the SubMersive's input or at a receiver's output as needed.  When used at the source, simply remove the gold RCA F:F adapter from the RCA plug.

Here is a picture of the adapter we provide with a power cord.  This picture shows the Australian power cord, where we do our best to supply a functional power cord for the shipping destination.  Here you can see the adapter with the gold RCA F-F already inserted into the RCA Male end.  For those plugging directly into the back of a receiver with RCA outputs you can remove the gold end to reveal the conventional RCA male end.  This configuration allows us to ship one adapter for either installation situation:

Mark Seaton
Seaton Sound, Inc.
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Quick addition:  For those running wires in-wall and in construction phase of a room, here is the "Permanent Install" version of the Canare Star Quad you will want.  Obviously this bulk cable requires terminating the connectors after you install them.  Note this version comes with a more durable grey jacket making it more tolerant to pulling over wood framing, through openings and the like.
Mark Seaton
Seaton Sound, Inc.
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