1. The blue power connector must be twisted clockwise until metal tab is at 12 o'clock and clicks into place.  Power will not flow if the PowerCon connector is not locked in place.
2. "VOLUME" knob is labeled as negative dB with 0dB attenuation as maximum gain.  Clockwise is louder, counter clockwise is quieter.  This is similar to most receiver volume controls which read out negative dB levels (relative to a calibrated reference).  For most systems I've found -16 to -10dB a typically useful starting point to adjust from.  Your SubMersive can deliver as much output at 0dB as it can at -30dB or lower.  -30dB just requires about 30x the input signal level (from preamp or EQ) to produce the same bass output as at 0dB.  Some systems require a 0dB setting, others require -36dB, both can be correct for your system.
3. An SPL meter or other measurement system is strongly recommended for setting or checking the subwoofer and speaker levels.  For any subwoofer you use, it is preferred for the receiver/preamp subwoofer channel levels to be at 0dB or lower.  If you start with the SubMersive's Level control at -16dB and find that the matching/preferred subwoofer level in the receiver/preamp's subwoofer channel is higher than zero you can raise the level on the SubMersive and then lower the preamp's level the same amount.  i.e. if the preamp needs to be at +6dB for the subwoofer, you can turn the level knob clockwise to -10dB and reduce the preamp level to 0dB and you will observe the same playback levels.
4. There is no single correct level setting for all systems!  If that were the case we wouldn't have a dial.   Appropriate settings from one room and system to another can easily be 15-30dB apart.
5. For those using an RCA output from a receiver or preamp see RCA-XLR connection details at the bottom of this post.

1. There are 2 push button switches to the left of the XLR connectors.  These are 2 position switches (IN/OUT).  Start with both switches at their IN (depressed) position.
2. The top switch/button labeled "MUTE" or "SW1" is available for troubleshooting or setup as a simple MUTE function.  This should be set to the IN position for use (OUT mutes the signal to the amplifier module).  It is packed with the switch depressed (IN), but can be occasionally pressed while handling or unpacking.  This mute switch takes effect AFTER the signal LED.
3. The lower switch/button labeled "PGM SEL" or "SW2" allows the selection of DSP program. *Pressing this switch while the sub is already on has no effect.* To eliminate the chance of loading problems the DSP program only loads when the SubMersive is powered on.  To select the original frequency response (recommended starting point for most) check the switch/button is at the IN position when you flip the power switch to on.  To change to the extended response set the switch/button to OUT, turn the power off for 3-5 seconds and switch it back on.
4. PGM SEL/SW2 set to IN (program 1) = original SubMersive response: +/-3dB 19-200Hz
5. PGM SEL/SW2 set to OUT (program 2) = secondary, extended SubMersive HP response: +/-3dB 15-200Hz.  While at first glance it sounds like this response extends lower, the real difference is a uniform lifting of the response by ~3.5dB below 20Hz tapering to equal response of program 1 above ~50Hz.
6. Most rooms under 3500-4000 cu.ft. with solid walls and only hallway/walkway openings will see in-room response extending to 8-14Hz with program 1, and this is the recommended starting point which will also provide greater punch, kick and intensity.
7. Program 2 is intended for large and very leaky rooms, and for those who want to add some additional lift to the lowest frequencies.  Those who most often listen below a calibrated -10 to -15 dB main volume setting may enjoy the added low frequency energy depending on the interaction with your SubMersive HP's placement and your listening position in the room.

1. PWR (green) LED:  Normally green when the amplifier is plugged in and main switch is on.  If not coming on, check that the blue power connector is locked in.
2. CLIP (amber) LED:  With the HP amplifier I don't expect anyone to ever see this light other than possibly a flash at power up.   Flashing will happen at high levels with the original SubMersive.  You aren't hurting your SubMersive, but if this is brightly lit, headroom is nearing its limits.
3. PROT (red) LED (Original SubMersive ONLY):  Typically this will engage in cases of over current or over heating.  Sound will mute when illuminated.  It should reset in a few seconds.  If not cycle power.  If problems persist, contact for troubleshooting. 
4. PROT (red) LED (HP Amplifier ONLY) 

• 1 Flash (~10x then stops) indicates no connection on the safety ground or a reversed phase/neutral wiring.  Check wall outlet wiring.
• 2 Flashes (repeats) indicates a GFI trip.
• 3 Flashes (repeats) indicates Overheating
• 4 Flashes (repeats) indicates an internal fault or DC output protection - contact us to troubleshoot.
• 5 Flashes (repeats) indicates power line over Voltage
• 6 Flashes (repeats) indicates power line under Voltage

can be found here:

One has black barrels on the connectors and has gold plated contact pins, one has silver barrels.  The construction is identical beyond that, and I wouldn't worry about using one vs. the other.  For the same price I've started switching to the black connectors as I think they look nicer and make labels on them stand out more, and the gold plated pins make us all feel better.   They build all of the cables in house and you can often order whatever length cable you need if you give them a call and can wait a couple days.

The short answer is that I turn everything off. I use multi-staged contactors. From my Integra, I use the 12v trigger to a solid state relay. The relay controls a 120V contactor. (Power to my back channel amps & to a second 240V contactor) The 240V contactor powers ALL my Seatons. (Three Cat 12Cs & two SubMs) I am waiting on two 240V compatible HP amp upgrades for my subs.