sandbagger Show full post »
Sevenfeet
sandbagger wrote:
I am just going to post this here as every now and then I get an email about 850 drivers.  Same goes for the 1000's and 750

AV123 basicly copied the HiVi  MxN series drivers for most of their speakers, but some have a crazy impedence and cant be matched with anything stock.
a Vifa tweeter listed below was also used in most of the speakers.

 

The 4 woofers are the same https://www.parts-express.com/hivi-m5n-5-aluminum---magnesium-midbass--297-436

The only difference is the cone color(paint if you want) and these are magneticly shielded, but no sonic differences

 

This is your mid https://www.parts-express.com/hivi-m4n-4-aluminum---magnesium-midbass--297-434

 

And tweeters are https://www.parts-express.com/peerless-by-tymphany-xt25tg30-04-1-dual-ring-radiator-tweeter--264-1016



So the 4" part is the woofer for the 750s?  I ask since my autistic son has damaged a few of mine over the years (I have four 750 towers).  Up until now all the damage has been superficial and I keep the screens on to keep his attention away from them.  But at some point recently he put a finger through one of them (not easy to do).

The color of the units doesn't matter much, especially since they will be behind the screens anyway.  So if it is indeed the correct size, I'll buy a few of them and get to work.
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Hondo5
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So the 4" part is the woofer for the 750s?  I ask since my autistic son has damaged a few of mine over the years (I have four 750 towers).  Up until now all the damage has been superficial and I keep the screens on to keep his attention away from them.  But at some point recently he put a finger through one of them (not easy to do).

The color of the units doesn't matter much, especially since they will be behind the screens anyway.  So if it is indeed the correct size, I'll buy a few of them and get to work.


As I posted above, aside from the cone color and smidge smaller flange, these basically drop right in as replacements.  Can't speak to the impedance, since I don't have the equipment to measure and it wasn't identified on the speaker.  But it seems to work as advertised.

I also picked up the MFW sub that Mark designed shortly before the company went under, but after the first didn't work, and the second amp Mark sent me also didn't work, I decided against a sub from AV123.  That's sort of consistent with Chinese electronics - quality control.  Finally ended up with a Hsu VTF3 MKII, which I'm very happy with.

So let me post another question.  Is there a good replacement to the internal MFW amp Marking was using in those subs?
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Sevenfeet
Hondo5 wrote:


As I posted above, aside from the cone color and smidge smaller flange, these basically drop right in as replacements.  Can't speak to the impedance, since I don't have the equipment to measure and it wasn't identified on the speaker.  But it seems to work as advertised.


Sounds good.  I'll order about 4 units.  And I'll put one of them and the outgoing one on an multimeter and check the resistance.
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Hondo5
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Sounds good.  I'll order about 4 units.  And I'll put one of them and the outgoing one on an multimeter and check the resistance.


That would be helpful.  I seem to remember the 750s and 850s were supposed to be 6 ohms, and I wonder if the replacement speakers are 8.
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Sevenfeet
Hondo5 wrote:


That would be helpful.  I seem to remember the 750s and 850s were supposed to be 6 ohms, and I wonder if the replacement speakers are 8.


The entire speaker is supposed to nominally be 6 ohms....not sure what an individual driver is supposed to be.  The center channel RSC200 was a 4 ohm design.
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sandbagger
Those drivers for the Rs750 and 850/1000's are correct 

The 760's used a crazy 6ohm or a 12ohm driver though

for the 750's you want the 5" not the 4" as that is for the mid on the 850's


good to see your around still Sevenfeet,  ran into a bunch of the old av123 guys out at RMAF in Denver over the weekend 


Kevin
Motor City Custom Audio
http://motorcitycustomaudio.com/
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Sevenfeet
sandbagger wrote:
Those drivers for the Rs750 and 850/1000's are correct 

The 760's used a crazy 6ohm or a 12ohm driver though

for the 750's you want the 5" not the 4" as that is for the mid on the 850's


good to see your around still Sevenfeet,  ran into a bunch of the old av123 guys out at RMAF in Denver over the weekend 




Ugh, now I have to cancel the order!  Thanks for the heads up!
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Sevenfeet
OK, I just ordered the 5" version but alas, the 4" version will still get delivered (Parts Express is fast!).  I'll return that box when I get it.

Whom did you see out at RMAF?  I miss the old days...


As you know, the amp in my UFW-12 died again months ago and I've chosen not to put any more money into it (unless it's something really simple I can fix myself).  The alternative is an external amp but I haven't look at that seriously either...maybe for my two channel room at a later date.

So I've been flying without a sub for awhile now mainly since I've been spending disposable income on other home theater priorities....Marantz 7703 nearly a year ago, 65" OLED TV back in February (including wiring and mounting) and the most recent upgrade, a Oppo UDP-205 just last week.  At some point I have to replace the sub and that means examining the usual suspects in high performance....SVS, JTR and of course Seaton.  The "master-slave" configuration with the F18+ is attractive but the dimensions for a front presentation are a little too wide between the center and the main 750s....I could squeeze it in but it's pushing it to be sure.  In contrast, the SVS PB16 is nearly two inches narrower (3" for the PB13) but that beast is a lot deeper...31" (!!) which is nearly as deep as the RPTV that used to sit in this spot.  Not sure the wife will approve.  The PB13 is 28"...better...barely what I think I can tolerate.  Meanwhile, the F18+ comes in at a trim 18".

My biggest problem may end up being funding.  Of late I've been trying to buy things by extended same-as-cash deals whenever possible.  It keeps these purchases from my credit cards and provides some discipline on the budget process.  I've used it a lot in the last two years, mainly with PayPal Credit but also with other stores, largely with Synchrony Bank.  Good credit affords me some flexibility with stuff like this and paying 6 months S-A-C (or longer) helps me convince my wife that a new purchase won't have a huge budgetary impact.

Buying this way makes it easiest for a company like SVS.  One of their authorized dealers sells over eBay and eBay does deals with PayPal from time to time to do 12 or even 24 month S-A-C deals for large purchases.  For anyone else, I'd likely have to actually save cash over time to convince my wife to do the purchase, much like I had to do with the Oppo 205 as I saved some outside consulting IT jobs over a period of 5 months to save the $1300 needed for that purchase.  Needless to say, a single F18+ in Rosenut would take longer.
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Hondo5
Sevenfeet wrote:

Whom did you see out at RMAF?  I miss the old days...


As you know, the amp in my UFW-12 died again months ago and I've chosen not to put any more money into it (unless it's something really simple I can fix myself).  The alternative is an external amp but I haven't look at that seriously either...maybe for my two channel room at a later date.

So I've been flying without a sub for awhile now mainly since I've been spending disposable income on other home theater priorities.....


Have you considered the SVS SB1000.

Review here:

http://www.audioholics.com/subwoofer-reviews/svs-sb1000-pb1000-subs

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Sevenfeet
Hondo5 wrote:


Have you considered the SVS SB1000.

Review here:

http://www.audioholics.com/subwoofer-reviews/svs-sb1000-pb1000-subs



Yes, most likely for my bedroom. [smile]
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Sevenfeet
sandbagger wrote:
Those drivers for the Rs750 and 850/1000's are correct 

The 760's used a crazy 6ohm or a 12ohm driver though

for the 750's you want the 5" not the 4" as that is for the mid on the 850's




The drivers should arrive in the mail today.  Any gotchas I need to consider before dissecting the speaker?  Or is removal of the old driver fairly straightforward?
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Sevenfeet
OK, I've made the repair to my 750 and included are a couple of photos before and after.  The M5N drivers came from Parts Express today.  They seem to be functional equivalents to what Mark used 15 years ago but there are a few differences:

1.  Color (Rose Gold)
2.  Flange (thicker with the thicker rubber gasket surrounding the driver)
3.  Magnetic shield

As expected, once I removed the screws I found out that the leads were soldered to the driver.  Fortunately I keep a soldering iron handy and could teach my 11 year old daughter a short lesson about sound, speaker design and electronics along the way.  Once the solder was melted, the leads removed easily.

At this point I took out the old Radio Shack digital multimeter to check the resistance of the old driver and the new driver.  Both measured about 7 ohms, nearly identical and good enough for the new one to be a good drop in replacement.

The new driver's flange is thicker than the original ones so it's not as flush with the wood face of the cabinet like the original driver was.  This isn't really a problem for me from an aesthetics standpoint since I operate with the screens on because of my special needs teenage son who put his finger through the driver in the first place.

The 750 is now back in the home theater and tested perfectly.  I have a few more drivers of my three other 750s with some nominal damage that I will replace in the next few days.  Next time I will have my daughter do most of the work with the soldering iron. [smile]

IMG_1196.jpg  IMG_1198.jpg 
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Boostted
I'm so glad I found this thread! Came home and noticed the drivers on my RSC200 is torn/blown, wtf? It was fine the last time I watched a movie. Anyways, the tweet for this center was posted on page 4 correct? What about the woofers for this center, which one should fit, thanks
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Mark_Seaton
Boostted wrote:
I'm so glad I found this thread! Came home and noticed the drivers on my RSC200 is torn/blown, wtf? It was fine the last time I watched a movie. Anyways, the tweet for this center was posted on page 4 correct? What about the woofers for this center, which one should fit, thanks


Possibly some others who have opened their speakers up can confirm, otherwise Kevin is out of the country for a week or two and can jump in when he gets back.  The best bet is to pull a driver and take physical measurement before you order anything.
Mark Seaton
Seaton Sound, Inc.
sales@seatonsound.net
773-290-8436
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180q
Hey gang,

I'm in need of a replacement driver for an RS150.  I feel like I've done a proper search through the forum but I haven't seen anything regarding this product.  Is there a parts express equivalent?  Thanks!

Edit: I compared the 150 to the 750 and they appear to use the same drivers, which are linked in this thread.  So, it looks like all I need is that rose gold 5" driver from PE......am I right?
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sandbagger
180q wrote:
Hey gang,

I'm in need of a replacement driver for an RS150.  I feel like I've done a proper search through the forum but I haven't seen anything regarding this product.  Is there a parts express equivalent?  Thanks!

Edit: I compared the 150 to the 750 and they appear to use the same drivers, which are linked in this thread.  So, it looks like all I need is that rose gold 5" driver from PE......am I right?


I never had the drivers for the 150's
As I remember off the top of my head the impedance is not the same as the 750 drivers but the size is. 
I remember looking for a drop in replacement and couldnt find anything.
You might try dropping in the 750 driver and see what it does. Tweeter circuit might need a modification.  If you do please report back here your findings.
Kevin
Motor City Custom Audio
http://motorcitycustomaudio.com/
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sandbagger
Boostted wrote:
I'm so glad I found this thread! Came home and noticed the drivers on my RSC200 is torn/blown, wtf? It was fine the last time I watched a movie. Anyways, the tweet for this center was posted on page 4 correct? What about the woofers for this center, which one should fit, thanks


The tweeter is the same
The drivers you want are the HiVi MxN series from PE they are drop in for the most part.  Some of the frames have a return lip that will not drop into the grove in the cabinet, no easy way to tell before hand either.  Get some dense gasket material to seal up the channel created by that.  Or you can use a dremmel tool and cut that return lip off, just make sure to tape up the driver really good as you will get metal grindings all over and in the driver.
Kevin
Motor City Custom Audio
http://motorcitycustomaudio.com/
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Hondo5
The 5-inch woofer replacement you recommended is working well in the 850s.  I think should the center channel ever go, I'll probably just pick up a center channel from Axiom Audio in Canada.  I have their bookshelf speakers in my living room, and they sound neutral, and would probably be a good match to the Rockets.  Still am surprised Shifter used Chinese hardware.  No wonder none of those plate amps never worked in the sub I bought......
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sandbagger
Hondo5 wrote:
The 5-inch woofer replacement you recommended is working well in the 850s.  I think should the center channel ever go, I'll probably just pick up a center channel from Axiom Audio in Canada.  I have their bookshelf speakers in my living room, and they sound neutral, and would probably be a good match to the Rockets.  Still am surprised Shifter used Chinese hardware.  No wonder none of those plate amps never worked in the sub I bought......


Actually the early amps worked fine and most are still going.  Its when they went to a low bid the builder cheeped out on the caps and they started failing and then it was all down hill from there
Kevin
Motor City Custom Audio
http://motorcitycustomaudio.com/
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copene
Hey guys, I asked Kevin this but I'm not sure how often he checks in here.

Does anyone know if the 850's and the Bigfoot had any of the speakers wired out of phase? I'm getting some really weird Audyssey readings and even stranger REW results. Audyssey is showing the 850's and the bigfoot "out of phase". I've checked the connections 100 times and they are 100% wired to be "in phase" with all my speaker wiring but I'm not really sure about what's going on with the wiring inside the speakers.
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Hondo5
sandbagger wrote:

Actually the early amps worked fine and most are still going.  Its when they went to a low bid the builder cheeped out on the caps and they started failing and then it was all down hill from there


Yes, it was the success of the early monsters that convinced me to purchase a later version.  When Mark told me to "keep" the first Amp (it failed on receipt), he sent another, which also didn't work.  He said he'd refund me, and don't bother sending it back.

I'm running a tuned-port Hsu right now, but it might be fun to have two operational.  Do you know of a good substitute for that plate amp?


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sandbagger
copene wrote:
Hey guys, I asked Kevin this but I'm not sure how often he checks in here.

Does anyone know if the 850's and the Bigfoot had any of the speakers wired out of phase? I'm getting some really weird Audyssey readings and even stranger REW results. Audyssey is showing the 850's and the bigfoot "out of phase". I've checked the connections 100 times and they are 100% wired to be "in phase" with all my speaker wiring but I'm not really sure about what's going on with the wiring inside the speakers.


It is possible that the binding posts inside the speaker are wired out of phase?
Also I think I have heard that can happen with Audyssey thinking things are out of phase when they are not.   I am not the pro with Audyssey but Mark might chime in or do some searching
Kevin
Motor City Custom Audio
http://motorcitycustomaudio.com/
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sandbagger
Hondo5 wrote:


Yes, it was the success of the early monsters that convinced me to purchase a later version.  When Mark told me to "keep" the first Amp (it failed on receipt), he sent another, which also didn't work.  He said he'd refund me, and don't bother sending it back.

I'm running a tuned-port Hsu right now, but it might be fun to have two operational.  Do you know of a good substitute for that plate amp?


Which Sub? 
Kevin
Motor City Custom Audio
http://motorcitycustomaudio.com/
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Hondo5
sandbagger wrote:


Which Sub? 


A replacement amp for the MFW-15.

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sandbagger
Hondo5 wrote:


A replacement amp for the MFW-15.


http://www.seaton-sound-forum.com/post/mfw15-mk2-amplifier-700w-amplifier-upgradereplacement-7837102?trail=80#63

Doesnt get any easier than this as its drop in and much better, plus if you want to upgrade the driver down the road, get the driver and ship the amp back for the DSP update and you have 2X the sub for cheap
Kevin
Motor City Custom Audio
http://motorcitycustomaudio.com/
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