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sandbagger

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Reply with quote  #41 
I dont have any, and I couldnt get any from the original manufacturer in China either when I ordered a bunch of drivers for other speakers I could get drivers.

I am trying to get a hold of my old RS750's (sold them years ago and now have changed hands again) so I can measure a driver and come up with something close.... no promises though

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocketsense
I need help!!! I just bought a set of Onix RS 750 Rockets today and noticed on of the drivers is fried!!! Is there anyway you can still get these drivers, Sandbagger? Please help. -Aaron

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Kevin
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ZooMan

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Reply with quote  #42 
craigsub at Chase Home theater site has some 760s foe sale, $300.00 for the set.  Will they work?

That's four setts of drivers 2 Tweeters two Xovers. Zip tie 2 woofers face to face, bubble wrap tight, Priority mail flat rate box 11" x 8 1/2" x 5 1/2"
$150.00 a set that's $600.00 and he still has the Tweeters and cross-overs for sale, 
Bonus! 760 cabinets for the wood stove.

I know it a perineum price for the drivers. There has to be other people/

Thanks for the help.

Ken


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Guys - This is all cash and carry - I don't have shipping boxes, or don't trust any shipping company.

It is possible that someone wanting a large order could get us to send it on a pallet... but no UPS or FED Ex.

Rocket RS-850's - Still in Box: $500 for the pair. SOLD
Rocket RS-760's - no box: $300 for the pair
Definitive Technology Trinity Subwooder: $1000 SOLD
Salk Songtowers: $1000 for the pair
Dana Model 900 Monitors ($3000 list): $800 for the pair
Onix Ref-100 center channel: $200 (works well with Rockets above)
SVS PB13 Ultra - $1000 (in oak)
TC-Sounds LMS-5400 in custom 21 inch cube - $800 (less than the cost of the driver - driver has 30 hours on it).
Swan 6.2's with matching center channel - $600 for all three SOLD
Rocket RSC-200 - SOLD

https://www.chasehometheater.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5290

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Ken
sandbagger

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Reply with quote  #43 
Just wanted to post up that I will very soon have a sutible replacement for the following

RS750 woofers
RS850/1000 woofers and MIDS
RSC200 MID

These are not original drivers but a very close match, measurements are almost dead on now.

I am still working on the mounting as the return flange does not mate up exactly to my speakers but depending on what version they might.  It is going to take some gasket material to make them a surface mount vs what I would call a flush mount.  Also the driver color is not the silver/aluminum right now.  I am working on a close color match or will just make them black.

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ZooMan

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Reply with quote  #44 
Is everything still in the works? I need one and maybe one backup for my RS750.  I'm game for any color and I can also make it work with or without a gasket,

Thanks again.

Ken

Quote:
Originally Posted by sandbagger
Just wanted to post up that I will very soon have a sutible replacement for the following

RS750 woofers
RS850/1000 woofers and MIDS
RSC200 MID

These are not original drivers but a very close match, measurements are almost dead on now.

I am still working on the mounting as the return flange does not mate up exactly to my speakers but depending on what version they might.  It is going to take some gasket material to make them a surface mount vs what I would call a flush mount.  Also the driver color is not the silver/aluminum right now.  I am working on a close color match or will just make them black.

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Ken
sandbagger

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Reply with quote  #45 
Ok after a bunch of work and a lot of PITA

I now have

RS850/1000 woofers
RS850/1000 MID range
RSC200 MID range

The return flange does not mate up exactly to my speakers but depending on what version you have they might.  It is going to take some gasket material to make them a surface mount vs what I would call a flush mount. I will include the gasket material.   Also the driver color is not the silver/aluminum right now.  I tried my best to match up the aluminum powder spray that is stock and just couldnt get anything close. They are all a black textured finish now.  I can supply pictures if you want to see what they look like.

I have a few of each in stock but wont be something I stock in the future, although I should be able to get more in.  It will take some time to modify them and paint the cones.

Email me for more info

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paulmcjannet

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Reply with quote  #46 
I seem to have likely blown my tweeter on one of my RS850 speakers. Anyone know if one of the Vifa ring radiator offerings at Parts Express would be a suitable replacement?? I have found some past threads online that mention the XT25TG30 as being a replacement.
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=264-1016

I plan on checking my leads on the driver and crossover to make sure it isn't just a connection issue, but I presume I should also be planning for a replacement.
Hoots

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Reply with quote  #47 
I am interested in grill covers for REF 3.  Several of the Male connectors snapped off.  

I took the covers off and haven't looked back but it would be nice to have the grills.  With Ninja mods I don't plan on selling anytime soon.

Ken
Sevenfeet

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Reply with quote  #48 
Greetings old AV123ers.

I've had a home theater based on four RS750s and an RSC200 center purchased about 12 years ago.  Sometime later I added a UFW-12 (original, no mods).  It's that subwoofer that seems to have had its power supply curl up and die after being in service for about a decade.  i came home from a Memorial Day trip to hear the unit clicking loudly over and over.  I pulled the plug and let it cool down, only plugging it back in three hours later to see what would happen (although I wasn't expecting anything good).  After a minute or so of buzzing, I powered the unit down.

I'm expecting that after heat and age, I've probably blown some caps although it could be other things.  I had always wanted to replace this unit in my home theater with a proper ported sub and move the UFW-12 to my two channel room (although my 20 year old SoundWave Grand Soliloquys don't really need much lower range help for music).  I don't really have budget right now to go to SVS and pick out the sub of my dreams, so I'm looking around for some advice on fixing this one.  I know that Mark and Kevin has been fixing these things over the years, so I need to know if that it still an option.  I am fairly handy with a soldering iron so there are some things I can do myself.  I fixed some bad caps on my Mitsubishi TV years ago, and more recently on one of my Tivos.

One other note:  A few months before AV123 imploded I received a package from them that was a driver upgrade for the original UFW-12 that was designed to make up for some of the design deficiencies of the original UFW-12.  Then the proverbial crap hit the fan with them and I never even bothered opening the box (it's still in my basement).  I'm not sure if it's worth cracking open as a project now, or even what's the difference of what I have now.  Maybe you guys have an inkling.
sandbagger

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Reply with quote  #49 
Sevenfeet

I am still still doing the small block updates and if the amp is 100% dead can replace with a new amp.
Probably easier to just send me an email and we can talk or give me a call

Kevin



Quote:
Originally Posted by Sevenfeet
Greetings old AV123ers.

I've had a home theater based on four RS750s and an RSC200 center purchased about 12 years ago.  Sometime later I added a UFW-12 (original, no mods).  It's that subwoofer that seems to have had its power supply curl up and die after being in service for about a decade.  i came home from a Memorial Day trip to hear the unit clicking loudly over and over.  I pulled the plug and let it cool down, only plugging it back in three hours later to see what would happen (although I wasn't expecting anything good).  After a minute or so of buzzing, I powered the unit down.

I'm expecting that after heat and age, I've probably blown some caps although it could be other things.  I had always wanted to replace this unit in my home theater with a proper ported sub and move the UFW-12 to my two channel room (although my 20 year old SoundWave Grand Soliloquys don't really need much lower range help for music).  I don't really have budget right now to go to SVS and pick out the sub of my dreams, so I'm looking around for some advice on fixing this one.  I know that Mark and Kevin has been fixing these things over the years, so I need to know if that it still an option.  I am fairly handy with a soldering iron so there are some things I can do myself.  I fixed some bad caps on my Mitsubishi TV years ago, and more recently on one of my Tivos.

One other note:  A few months before AV123 imploded I received a package from them that was a driver upgrade for the original UFW-12 that was designed to make up for some of the design deficiencies of the original UFW-12.  Then the proverbial crap hit the fan with them and I never even bothered opening the box (it's still in my basement).  I'm not sure if it's worth cracking open as a project now, or even what's the difference of what I have now.  Maybe you guys have an inkling.

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Sevenfeet

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Reply with quote  #50 
PM sent your way.
Sevenfeet

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Reply with quote  #51 
OK, another update...

I went down to my basement to check on the unopened AV123 box from all those years ago.  Turns out it's a UFW-12 Hot Rod upgrade package....driver, amp, parts, everything.  This means I should have everything I need to get to this beast back into form.  All I need now is some time to take the old unit apart.

Any other tips, tricks or traps I need to know before I start (won't be until this weekend at the earliest).

And from what I'm reading in the other threads, I may want to just fix the broken 1000W amp rather than go with the new 500 Watt amp.  Thoughts?
sandbagger

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Reply with quote  #52 
I hate to say it but its not if but simply when will that 500W HR amp die!

At this point I would be very supprised if there are more than 10 of them still working.

But it will get you up and running now

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sevenfeet
OK, another update...

I went down to my basement to check on the unopened AV123 box from all those years ago.  Turns out it's a UFW-12 Hot Rod upgrade package....driver, amp, parts, everything.  This means I should have everything I need to get to this beast back into form.  All I need now is some time to take the old unit apart.

Any other tips, tricks or traps I need to know before I start (won't be until this weekend at the earliest).

And from what I'm reading in the other threads, I may want to just fix the broken 1000W amp rather than go with the new 500 Watt amp.  Thoughts?

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Mark_Seaton

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Reply with quote  #53 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sevenfeet
OK, another update...

I went down to my basement to check on the unopened AV123 box from all those years ago.  Turns out it's a UFW-12 Hot Rod upgrade package....driver, amp, parts, everything.  This means I should have everything I need to get to this beast back into form.  All I need now is some time to take the old unit apart.

Any other tips, tricks or traps I need to know before I start (won't be until this weekend at the earliest).

And from what I'm reading in the other threads, I may want to just fix the broken 1000W amp rather than go with the new 500 Watt amp.  Thoughts?



Hi Sevenfeet, I remember the screen name and good to see you found your way over here...

I would have Kevin get you the 1000W amp for the driver you want to use.  We worked up mods for both drivers, and ours is much better matched to the Hot Rod driver than the one they shipped = sounds smoother, better, and extends deeper in room.  If you wanted to still move one to the other room, I believe Kevin still has a couple UFW-12 cabinets you could load the HR driver into so you would have two subs rather than just one.


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Sevenfeet

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Reply with quote  #54 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark_Seaton

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sevenfeet
OK, another update...

I went down to my basement to check on the unopened AV123 box from all those years ago.  Turns out it's a UFW-12 Hot Rod upgrade package....driver, amp, parts, everything.  This means I should have everything I need to get to this beast back into form.  All I need now is some time to take the old unit apart.

Any other tips, tricks or traps I need to know before I start (won't be until this weekend at the earliest).

And from what I'm reading in the other threads, I may want to just fix the broken 1000W amp rather than go with the new 500 Watt amp.  Thoughts?



Hi Sevenfeet, I remember the screen name and good to see you found your way over here...

I would have Kevin get you the 1000W amp for the driver you want to use.  We worked up mods for both drivers, and ours is much better matched to the Hot Rod driver than the one they shipped = sounds smoother, better, and extends deeper in room.  If you wanted to still move one to the other room, I believe Kevin still has a couple UFW-12 cabinets you could load the HR driver into so you would have two subs rather than just one.



Hi Mark, great to hear from you again.  And it was great to hear from Kevin (sandbagger) on the phone earlier today.

That's actually not a bad idea.  I have three music/theater rooms in my house.  The first is my main theater that the RS750s are and the UFW-12.  I have an adjacent room with ELT towers and the matching center channel.  The satellites are Rocket Tykes (remember those?).  There used to be the cheap Tyke sub in this room but my son damaged it years ago and it finally died recently (and not worth fixing).  My two channel living room has the SoundWave Grand Soliloquys powered by an Audible Illusions Modulus 3 tube pre-amp and a McCormick DNA 0.5 100wpc amp.  There is no sub in this room but the GS towers are full range and don't really need a sub (there were designed to run without them).  Still, a sealed music sub may be a minor upgrade for the performance of this system.

At some point I still want a proper ported sub in my theater room and have had my heart set on a SVS sub of some kind for a while.  My latest upgrade money budget was already spoken for since I was going to order a Oppo BDP-105D real soon.  And then the UFW-12 sub died unexpectedly.

Given the conversation that Kevin and I had, I'm not looking to put the HR amp into service since he thinks that it probably won't last long and has performance issues anyway.  Heck, it could be dead now!  Kevin thinks I may have a stuck relay so I'll pull the amp and try examine the relay to see if I can get it operational.  If not, I'll send it back to Kevin to see if he can get it working again.

If we went the "creating a second sub from parts" solution, that would allow me to put a UFW-12 in the room with the ELTs.  The problem is that this room doesn't have a lot of room and the UFW-12 is kind of a big box.  I had actually looked at a SVS PC12 NSD for this application.  And it still may make more sense, especially since it will be only $750 to get into one and getting a parts UFW-12 going will require a new amp and new cabinet.  By the time I get everything together and working, I may be within earshot of the SVS and a warranty.

I will pull the existing amp in the next few days and see what I can find.  I'll post some pictures of my work.
Sevenfeet

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Reply with quote  #55 
Well, here's the patient.  When I discovered it last week from a trip, it was making loud clicking sounds like a relay switch going on and off a few times a second.  When I gave it power today, it began with no noise, and then after 30 second began making a buzzing sound (like a 60hz buzz but less clean) that got louder and louder.  After a minute I discontinued power.  At no point during the test did it ever play any of the test patterns I had going.  I'll remove the amp later today and try to see what's going on.

IMG_4995.jpg 
IMG_4997.jpg

Sevenfeet

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Reply with quote  #56 
The amp was removed with 12 screws and is contained in a sealed box.  I'm assuming that some of the screws on the faceplate of the amp will free the cover.  The original UFW-12 HR upgrade instructions talk about cutting the wires to the driver at this point since the wires are soldered at the driver's connection points.  But I imagine that if I crack the amp box open, I'd probably have access to the wires on that side (which are probably also soldered).

So my question for sandbagger is what do you want me to do next?  Cut the wires, put the whole thing in a box and send it back to you?  Or crack open the amp and start looking for problems (like the relay we discussed earlier)?  My soldering iron is at the ready. [smile]

IMG_4999.jpg

sandbagger

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Reply with quote  #57 
remove the 4 screws in the corners and the box will open up, there is a molex conector wraped in foam tape that you can disconect to get the amp free from the sub.

once you get it open and if you find anything give me a call

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Sevenfeet

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Reply with quote  #58 
OK, the amp is now opened and I disconnected the molex (although the foam tape did not want to come off in a nice single piece...oh well).  On first glance, there doesn't seem to be anything obviously wrong with it.  No peaking caps or anything else that my limited experience with electronic circuit boards would instantly recognize.  Pictures includes below.  I could plug it back in and listen for where the noise was coming from and try to isolate further.

IMG_5004.jpg  IMG_5006.jpg  IMG_5007.jpg  IMG_5005.jpg 

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Reply with quote  #59 
OK, after a talk with sandbagger on the phone, it looks like we found our bad part.  As Kevin suspected earlier, the buzz is coming from the relay circuit on the power supply board.  You can see it as a blue box in the photo above underneath two huge capacitors, but here's a closeup below.  If I give this unit power, over about 30 seconds you start to hear a louder and louder buzz coming from this board.  If I put the plastic end of my screwdriver carefully (!) against the relay box, it vibrates back at you through the barrel of the screwdriver.  Problem identified.  There's a molex plug connection to this board shown in the photo.  If I disconnect this and hotwire it straight to the driver wire, I will most likely get the driver to work again (bypassing the relay).

So I'll send it back to Kevin early next week and let him replace the power supply board and make the necessary mods to improve its performance.  Thanks Kevin for spending time with me on the phone discussing this.

IMG_5010.jpg

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Reply with quote  #60 
I wanted to give the forum a follow-up on my experience getting my UFW-12 repaired.  In short, Sandbagger rocks!

My UFW-12 has a relay circuit on the power supply fail, causing the unit not to perform.  On Sandbagger's (Kevin) direction, I removed the amp and sent it back to him for repair and his mods to improve the performance of the unit.  The UFW-12 is never going to have the bass extension of a MFW-12 or other ported subs, but I was looking forward to seeing if the UFW-12 wouldn't roll off like a cliff under 30 hz as it had been known to do.  I got the unit back weeks ago but due to family commitments, I haven't been able to do any real testing with an SPL meter until now.  My tester is the old tried and true Radio Shack analog SPL meter, purchased over a decade ago.  It needs a few tweaks to account for its own errors, but it's close enough for the purposes of this test.

I used track 16 from the venerable Stereophile "Test 2" CD that sends a test tone measured in 1/3rd octaves from 200 hz down to 20 hz.  Since my family is in the house, I decided to keep the volume in the 70-75 db range.  What I found was that on the low end, the UFW-12 is now capable of reproducing a test tone at about 72 db at 25 hz, the same as I was getting from my system at 160 hz-200 hz (+/- 3 db).  At 20 hz, the pressure rolls off to about 63 db, but that's still much better than I was seeing before.  What I wasn't expecting was a big spike in the middle range.  Between 40-63 hz I was seeing volumes in the 82-84 db range.  I was hoping that Audyssey on my Denon X2000 would have smoothed out this spike more, but my experience tells me that this is a fantasy.  The UFW-12 allows for some tweaking, but I'm going to have to go back to the manual and check to see exactly what I can try to manage with the rear controls.  (Any suggestions would be appreciated).

One other thing I did was do some measurements on my two channel rig, which consists of a Audible Illusions Modulus 3 tube pre-amp (recently back from major repairs and new tubes), a McCormack DNA 0.5 amp, and SoundWave Grand Soliloquy towers (all of this equipment is circa 1994).  I had purchased this equipment from a friend who had purchased it from another friend over a decade ago.  The measurements of the Soundwaves was interesting....everything was more or less level from 200 hz downward to 63 hz where at 50 hz the measurements dropped 10 dbs to the 62-64 db range.  Accounting for the measurement errors in the Radio Shack meter, the speakers keep this volume steady down to about 25 db's where it drops again a bit at 20 hz.  In many ways, these are good numbers for 20 year old analog equipment, but a sub coming in at the 60 hz mark might do some good augmenting the sound.

And the UFW-12 is the obvious choice for the application, given it's ability to now extend properly under 32 hz (low C on a pipe organ).  The problem is going to be that since this is a true analog system, bass management is pretty much nonexistent so I'm going to have to calibrate carefully.  The Modulus 3 has two sets of amp outputs, so I don't need the ability to pass through a signal to an amp (which the UFW-12 can't do anyway).  Since the SPL levels under 63 hz are pretty consistent, it may be easier to match a sub to fill in what the mains cannot do at the same level of amplification.

But if I can repurpose the UFW-12 toward a strict music application, I can replace it in the home theater room with a proper ported sub to rock movies, so there is some incentive for the project.
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