Don't underestimate the extension of the UFW-12. In most rooms the modified version will extend lower than a standard MFW-15, while giving up some in max output, and a bit more vs. the Turbo version. A few points... Are the numbers you mention above directly read from the meter? If so, it sounds like you may have little to no roll off down low, as the C-Weighting purposely applies a significant roll off on the lowest frequencies. There are some spreadsheets & charts available to compensate if you do some quick searching. Secondly, you will need to re-run Audyssey with the updated UFW-12. The response is plenty different from the stock unit. You also need to go back into the speaker setup menu after running Audyssey to check what it did to the crossovers and small/large settings.
Finally, double check the PEQ filter is set near 0dB, which is at some middle range of the dial, not either extreme.
I'm aware of the issues concerning the Radio Shack SPL meter although it's even years since I cared about the details. I did find some of the compensation documents (but I have to download the spreadsheet out there somewhere). I wasn't trying to be absolutely precise today since I don't have a quiet house to myself. I had thought I'd rerun Audyssey when the sub amp came but I'll run it again, just to be sure. Nevertheless, I'm pleased since the UFW-12 without mods clearly couldn't handle some lows quite like this.
Placement of speaker & subwoofer has a huge impact on the response. As you note, it does sound like the UFW-12 could really help augment the bottom of your speakers. Experiment with lowering the crossover to ~30-65Hz and play with the level a good bit. Even better would be to grab one of the USB mic's and get REW working for less than $100.
Placement of the sub is a big deal. I should note that when I was doing all this, I was measuring not at the primary listening point but at a point about a meter away. So now I'm thinking all my stuff today was a bit of a crock Anyway, I went back and remeasured at the primary seating position. I'm still seeing a bump in the sub's performance between 40 and 63 hz, (but not as loud as before) which will need some more investigation. Most of the other measurements were within a +4 range of 70 dbs. That means I'm not seeing a much of a rolloff until under 25hz, and even at 20hz it's within reason (mid 60's, adjusted) for what I would expect of a sealed sub. Not bad at all.
I've gone ahead and downloaded REW (the latest version finally seems gets past the Java sound library issues on the Mac). In lieu of spending money on a new mic, I'll use the Radio Shack SPL for the time being and let the program correct. That will be "close enough" for the time being.
I'll let you know what I find.
I was hoping someone could assist me. Not having the funds right now for a new sub, I needed to replace two of my UFW-10 amps. I purchased 2 dayton SA-250 plate amps from parts express. The first sub install in sub #1 went fine as the binding posts were positioned out of the way of the cabinet bracing and was easy to access.
Sub #2 however, has its binding posts positioned at 6:00, almost dead center behind the cabinet bracing. My hands are too big to get back there to depress the binding post and insert the respective + and - wires.
I've tried almost every way i could think of to bend my wrist to get to the &$?!" binding post but i can' t. I've even tried rotating the driver, but it seems glued in place. I think rotating the driver may be my best bet, but it seems stuck. Anyone have any other ideas?
To get the driver out take all the screws out the front and give it a smack on the back from inside. there should not be anything really sticking it in, but the cabinet finish might have not been dry/cured? if you really have to hit it hard I would use a long screw driver and place it as close to the cutout as possible.
Hi I found today that my daughter has pushed in both of my RS150 tweeters. Are these still available? The RS150s are serial numbers 00253/00254.
If not, does anyone have a couple used for sale? Or is there an upgrade tweet available, like the Vifa ring radiator (with requisite crossover adjustments)?
I also have an RSC200 'Bigfoot' center channel that I am not using if anyone might be interested. Has very low hours, just too big for my theater setup and has been sitting in a closet.
So it's now 2017, and I have one speaker that has a low-frequency driver that has given up the ghost and is now buzzing badly at certain frequencies. I'm wondering if anyone can give me an idea of what it will cost to replace that single driver on the bottom of the array, or whether it can be replaced at all.
Everything was going swimmingly with AV123 until just after I purchased my 850s and HT set-up. Then it all started heading south. I was promised some bookshelf speakers when I made my purchase, but never got them, and instead was offered a small sub-woofer as a switch, which didn't please me. So it goes.
What I need right now is a low-frequency driver for my right speaker. Can someone help?
AV123 basicly copied the HiVi MxN series drivers for most of their speakers, but some have a crazy impedence and cant be matched with anything stock.
a Vifa tweeter listed below was also used in most of the speakers.
The 4 woofers are the same https://www.parts-express.com/hivi-m5n-5-aluminum---magnesium-midbass--297-436
The only difference is the cone color(paint if you want) and these are magneticly shielded, but no sonic differences
The stock ring radiator is a very good tweeter, not sure what you would gain in a Rocket design by changing, but here goes.
Upgrade options in similar design would be in the line of Scan Speak ring radiators, the Discovery being similar in appearance and the lowest cost ($50-60 at Madisound), although still made in Europe (Denmark). I haven't compared directly to the Vifa so no idea if you would find an improvement. https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/ring-radiator-tweeters/scanspeak-discovery-r2604/8320-1-tweeter-ring-radiator/ https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/ring-radiator-tweeters/scanspeak-discovery-r2604/8330-tweeter-dual-ring-radiator/ (dual magnet, higher sensitivity)
The Illuminator (~$140) and Revelator (you don't want to know but a lot more) are really good albeit pricey. Illuminator is small diameter mount so would have to rig up an adapter plate or something in the Rockets. I have tried the Revelator in an open baffle speaker I worked on with a friend, worked great although we ended up with an AMT type as the flush appearance was preferred in our application.
These might be interesting to try as they come on a round plate mount, didn't check the diameter versus the Vifa- I'll leave that to you. http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-amt2-4-air-motion-transformer-tweeter-4-ohm--275-092 http://www.parts-express.com/fountek-neocd10-ribbon-tweeter--296-701 http://www.parts-express.com/aurum-cantus-g2si-ribbon-tweeter--276-400 https://www.parts-express.com/hivi-rt13we-isodynamic-tweeter--297-421 http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/ribbon-tweeters/hi-vi-rt1.3we-isodynamic-tweeter/
Metal dome option? https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/horn-tweeters/seas-prestige-27tbcd/gb-dxt-h1499-tweeter/
THANK YOU so much for this information. I have ordered two drivers - one to repair my RS850, and one as a backup. Out of curiosity, do you have a recommended upgrade to the RS850 tweeters that provides better performance than the existing Viva tweeters installed?
Thanks all for your information. I received and installed the bass driver yesterday and it appears to be doing the job. Interesting that the flange that fits into the slot on the front of the speaker cabinet is just a smidge smaller on the replacement driver than the original, but it fit.
The Vifa is okay, but my preference is for something a little brighter and more forward. I'll probably leave it as is because it's a good match to the other speakers, but if I have some spare change rolling around on the car floor one day, might decide to experiment with an upgrade. The RS850s are very laid back by nature, but throw a large, three dimensional sound stage. I was listening to Beethoven Symphony No. 8 conducted by Blunier of the Beethoven Orchester Bonn (a SACD) last night on the Oppo, and kept wanted to turn it off and go to bed, but couldn't.