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Herb

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Reply with quote  #141 
Hey there,

Sandbagger, I sent you a PM.

My MFW-15 just started humming recently. I took out the amp the perform Murrel's fix. What I found was one of the big black caps had a popped top. I had an exchange with Murrel and he basically said it was dead. His suggestion was to come here and ask about a plate to make it passive.


sandbagger

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Reply with quote  #142 
Dont see any PM's 

I am now out of plates.   

You can disconnect the amp from the binding posts and then just wire the driver direct to the posts

Quote:
Originally Posted by Herb
Hey there,

Sandbagger, I sent you a PM.

My MFW-15 just started humming recently. I took out the amp the perform Murrel's fix. What I found was one of the big black caps had a popped top. I had an exchange with Murrel and he basically said it was dead. His suggestion was to come here and ask about a plate to make it passive.



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Kevin
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engtaz

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Reply with quote  #143 
ok are we talking about the red and black wire to be soldered to the binding post?

Thanks
sandbagger

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Reply with quote  #144 
Yes, the wire that I supply that you run to the driver you can connect to the binding posts on the back of the amp.  You also need to disconnect the amp from those posts

Quote:
Originally Posted by engtaz
ok are we talking about the red and black wire to be soldered to the binding post?

Thanks

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Kevin
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marknoir

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Reply with quote  #145 
Hi all

I'm new to this, and to the MFW-15 saga. I have an opportunity to buy one with hum for $120. I'm pretty sure I can do the capacitor fix for now. Is it worth it or should I look for a different sub? I'm looking for a sub for a home theater but also for music.

Thank you

Mark
sandbagger

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Reply with quote  #146 
Mark

The cap fix is not a 100% fix, as in it fixes most but not all.  Generally if the amp still works but with the hum, there is a good chance it will fix it, if all it does is hum, it might fix it but might not.   Also the cap fix may work for a very long time or might last a few weeks..... no way to tell.

Keep that in mind, worst case is you have to buy an amp for it through Mark 

Quote:
Originally Posted by marknoir
Hi all

I'm new to this, and to the MFW-15 saga. I have an opportunity to buy one with hum for $120. I'm pretty sure I can do the capacitor fix for now. Is it worth it or should I look for a different sub? I'm looking for a sub for a home theater but also for music.

Thank you

Mark

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Kevin
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paw

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Reply with quote  #147 
Quote:
Originally Posted by marknoir
Hi all

I'm new to this, and to the MFW-15 saga. I have an opportunity to buy one with hum for $120. I'm pretty sure I can do the capacitor fix for now. Is it worth it or should I look for a different sub? I'm looking for a sub for a home theater but also for music.

Thank you

Mark


Are you willing to spend $120 PLUS

$420 (including shipping) for a replacement amp? Total $540.
$860 (including shipping) for a replacement amp and driver? Total $980.

http://www.seaton-sound-forum.com/post/mfw15-turbo-kits-w-dropin-icepower-amplifier-7812387

marknoir

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Reply with quote  #148 
Quote:
Originally Posted by sandbagger
Mark

The cap fix is not a 100% fix, as in it fixes most but not all.  Generally if the amp still works but with the hum, there is a good chance it will fix it, if all it does is hum, it might fix it but might not.   Also the cap fix may work for a very long time or might last a few weeks..... no way to tell.

Keep that in mind, worst case is you have to buy an amp for it through Mark 



Thank you

I want to try to fix it first. I got it last night. It playa fine but with hum. I pulled the plate out. The four caps as per Murrell's cap fix are easy to do, but one adjacent disc cap has ceased to exist. Anybody knows the value of it?

Thx

Mark

disc cap.jpg 

sandbagger

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Reply with quote  #149 
it is the same value as the others on the board, I believe that has a 102 on it. 
I am at work and dont have one to look at right now. 
its a pretty standard size as radio shack use to even have them in stock [smile]

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Kevin
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marknoir

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Reply with quote  #150 
Quote:
Originally Posted by sandbagger
it is the same value as the others on the board, I believe that has a 102 on it. 
I am at work and dont have one to look at right now. 
its a pretty standard size as radio shack use to even have them in stock [smile]


Thank you!

It is burned so badly that nothing can be read on it. I'll check the others
marknoir

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Reply with quote  #151 
Quote:
Originally Posted by sandbagger
it is the same value as the others on the board, I believe that has a 102 on it. 
I am at work and dont have one to look at right now. 
its a pretty standard size as radio shack use to even have them in stock [smile]


They all say 104M, which is a 50V rating. 102M would be a 1000V or a 3000V rating... Not sure what to put in there yet...
sandbagger

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Reply with quote  #152 
Quote:
Originally Posted by marknoir


They all say 104M, which is a 50V rating. 102M would be a 1000V or a 3000V rating... Not sure what to put in there yet...


Just the 50V 0.1 uF

I have seen these go only when the other caps really go

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Kevin
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facesnorth

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Reply with quote  #153 
Hello all,

Another sad dual MFW-15 owner here.  I splurged way over budget to buy my duals initially, and couldn't even consider the upgrade when it was first made available.  Just popped on again as I am saving up to finally upgrade these things soon, but it looks like perhaps these are not available anymore?  Or at least not as before.

At this point does it make sense to explore other options?  Would I better served just scrapping these and starting from scratch somewhere?  Would like to stay at or under $1K budget, but probably $1.5K max.
sandbagger

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Reply with quote  #154 
Quote:
Originally Posted by facesnorth
Hello all,

Another sad dual MFW-15 owner here.  I splurged way over budget to buy my duals initially, and couldn't even consider the upgrade when it was first made available.  Just popped on again as I am saving up to finally upgrade these things soon, but it looks like perhaps these are not available anymore?  Or at least not as before.

At this point does it make sense to explore other options?  Would I better served just scrapping these and starting from scratch somewhere?  Would like to stay at or under $1K budget, but probably $1.5K max.


They are available but with a really nice drop in amp so no external amp needed, same if not better performance as the original Turbo too.  

If budget is a big deal I would update 1 and then do the other down the road as a single will give you double+ what you had with much better sound quality 

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Kevin
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facesnorth

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Reply with quote  #155 
OK that's awesome.  Yeah I just noticed that actually.  I am going to look into that.

I was reading the first post, and it mentioned having to space out the front due to different sized driver, but with new drivers coming that fit?  Or the option of a new front plate.  Is that still an issue or do the drivers fit flush now?
sandbagger

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Reply with quote  #156 
to be honest I do not know if Mark has the larger diam cutout face plates available or not
to be honest the 1/2" spacers worked great and dont look bad at all 

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Kevin
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