Mark_Seaton
Hi All,

Good to hear some have already installed their amplifiers without issue.  We took the time to put the gasket on the amplifier plates and include the better suited screws for use in MDF.  The hardest part of the process is removing the original amplifier. The originals used torx head screws which should be size T15. Remove and throw away the old screws, we have included new screws that are much better for use in MDF.  The original amplifiers were a very tight fit in the cabinet. Many have had luck using wires through to binding posts as a way to grab and pull the amplifier from the cabinet.   The only tool required to install the amplifier is a power screwdriver with a Philips #2 drive bit.  

For most the electrical connection will be very simple matter of matching the red to red wire and black to black with the bullet-style connectors.  There is a ribbon-style cable which unplugs from the original amplifier which connected to the upper control panel.  You can either leave this cable in place or cut the connectors from one end and pull it through from the other side.

Connection:  Please check the small silver toggle switch is pointing at the connection you are using being the RCA or XLR connectors.  It may function if not set correctly, but you can get noise or improper auto-sensing.

RCA inputs are summed together.  Only 1 of the 2 need be connected in a surround system.  Either input works the same.

XLR connections are female input and male "looping output" which serves as a simple Y connector inside your amplifier.  RCA Y-connectors are easy to find and inexpensive, XLR's not so much.  This allows you to route the subwoofer signal into one sub and pass it on to another or on to shakers or the like.  The looping output is a direct connection to the signal coming in with no electronics between (like a Y connector).

For knob function:

Let's start with a picture of the amplifier with the knobs in the positions I recommend starting at:

[MFW-ICEamp-front]    

1) Level: Start position: 12 o'clock.  This knob is intended to help match the level of your subwoofer to your speakers.  This should be used as a coarse adjustment to get adjusted to your system and room, with the individual channel levels in the surround processor making the fine adjustments.  Start at 12 o'clock and adjust accordingly, preferably with an SPL meter or microphone like the MiniDSP UMIK-1 (which we stock and sell for $75).  *THERE IS NO CORRECT LEVEL SETTING*  There is only a correct setting for your system and preference.  As I like to say, if there was a single correct setting, I'd get rid of the knob and set it there. [thumb]

2) LF EQ:  Start position 12 o'clock.  This is similar to the LF Adjust knob on our SubMersive and F18 models.  I will post up the range of adjustment it provides, but this is a shelf filter which raises and lowers the lowest frequencies with very little change above 50Hz.  This has a few potential uses depending on the room, system adjustments and listener preferences.  Potential uses and adjustments:
  • Adjustment for smaller vs larger rooms that boost the 15-30Hz range less or more.  MAX (full clockwise) is roughly a +8dB change at 15Hz, MIN (full counter-clockwise) is -8dB change at 15Hz.  For those who found the original balance of the MFW-15 to have more punch than the updated model (which is flatter in response), turn this knob down to 9 o'clock on the dial.
  • Post room correction flavoring.  Start with the knob at 9 o'clock to 12 o'clock before running Audyssey, Dirac, etc.  After room correction has smoothed the response, you can adjust this in the clockwise direction to taste for more whallop and weight vs. turning it down while increasing the subwoofer level to get more punch and attack.
3) Crossover.  Start position full clockwise for use with surround processor.  4th order low pass crossover which goes to effective bypass mode when the knob is full clockwise (maximum).  This crossover can be adjusted all the way down to 30Hz when used with a stereo system.

4)  Delay.  Leave at minumum or full counter-clockwise.  This is intended for use with multiple subwoofers at front-rear locations in the room and is best used while watching the subwoofer's frequency response interaction with other subwoofers and speakers in the room.  Without a microphone like the MiniDSP UMIK-1 (which we stock and sell for $75), you're mostly guessing to set this.

12V trigger uses a mini-plug and can be connected to the 12V triggers on most receivers and preamplifiers.  This is the ideal method of remote turn-on/off as it eliminates the chance of the subwoofer turning off during low level listening.  You can easily connect 2 subwoofers per 12V trigger output of a receiver, possibly more.
Mark Seaton
Seaton Sound, Inc.
sales@seatonsound.net
773-290-8436
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Mark_Seaton
Reserved for additional pictures or details.
Mark Seaton
Seaton Sound, Inc.
sales@seatonsound.net
773-290-8436
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modestninja
I received my new amp today and everything was exactly as described except from what I can see, my MFW-15 doesn't have bullet connectors. Do I need to go and get bullet connectors and put them on? The connectors look like these:
[211jwjo]  [xpsv1c] 
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JonTux
Mine went in fine with a couple notes:
1. I had a white and black wire
2. I needed to compress my female bullets to make a tight fit with the new male connections
3. I cut and removed the old control panel cable to remove any rattle potential.

Do I need to Y the LFE line into both RCA? I am getting a very low output signal. Having to turn the dial clockwise 100% to elevate the bass to appropriate levels. Double checked the receiver and tried multiple sources...
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Mark_Seaton
modestninja wrote:
I received my new amp today and everything was exactly as described except from what I can see, my MFW-15 doesn't have bullet connectors. Do I need to go and get bullet connectors and put them on? The connectors look like these:
 


Most MFW-15s have the bullet connectors, but AV123 wasn't the most consistent with connectors and wiring.  

For wiring, black always connects to black, and either red -> red or white -> red.

We provide the bullet connectors to usually make life easier.  It doesn't matter what connector is used, so long as they connect the right wires together.  You can pick up the blue / 14-16 AWG bullet connectors at most any hardware store, likely even a Wallmart or possibly a Target.
Mark Seaton
Seaton Sound, Inc.
sales@seatonsound.net
773-290-8436
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Mark_Seaton
JonTux wrote:
Mine went in fine with a couple notes: 1. I had a white and black wire 2. I needed to compress my female bullets to make a tight fit with the new male connections 3. I cut and removed the old control panel cable to remove any rattle potential. Do I need to Y the LFE line into both RCA? I am getting a very low output signal. Having to turn the dial clockwise 100% to elevate the bass to appropriate levels. Double checked the receiver and tried multiple sources...


Sending signal to both inputs will raise the level, but this is no different than increasing the output level on your receiver by 3dB.  Do be sure you have the crossover knob at maximum (clockwise), and your receiver has the main speakers set to "small" crossed over the subwoofer in the 60-100Hz range.  If using Audyssey, be sure to quickly test by turning Audyssey off to make sure that isn't the issue.  At full clockwise gain there should be plenty of level.

While the difference is subtle and has more effect on the noise floor and the Auto ON/OFF, also check the little switch between the XLR & RCA connectors is pointed at "RCA".
Mark Seaton
Seaton Sound, Inc.
sales@seatonsound.net
773-290-8436
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