Seaton Sound Discussion Forum
Register Calendar Latest Topics
 
 
 


Reply
  Author   Comment   Page 2 of 2      Prev   1   2
sandbagger

Avatar / Picture

Moderator
Registered:
Posts: 524
Reply with quote  #21 
You can take a piece of wire connect it to the binding posts and make a pull handle out of it.   Since you have cut all the way around it to make sure the finish is cut, lift the cabinet up off the ground a very small amount( put something soft under it!) and have someone tap on the plate with something like a screwdriver or small hammer.  Sometimes just the small jolt will break things loose.
__________________
Kevin
Motor City Custom Audio
http://motorcitycustomaudio.com/
SoCalWJS

Registered:
Posts: 12
Reply with quote  #22 
Brilliant! Worked perfectly. Found an old piece of 12 ga (or so), looped it to + and - on the top and bottom sets, gave a tug, and up it came.

Easy! (course, I feel a stupid for not coming up with that one.... doh!!!!! )

Thanks Kevin!
SoCalWJS

Registered:
Posts: 12
Reply with quote  #23 
Quick question if you're still around. Was going to put the 8" (or so) piece of fiberglass back in before installing the sub. Should I add polyfill? Should I keep the fiberglass out and fill the whole thing up with polyfill?

...or is just the existing fiberglass enough?
sandbagger

Avatar / Picture

Moderator
Registered:
Posts: 524
Reply with quote  #24 
What is in there us pretty good, you could add a bit if you have it handy. You don't want so much that you block the port though.
__________________
Kevin
Motor City Custom Audio
http://motorcitycustomaudio.com/
sandbagger

Avatar / Picture

Moderator
Registered:
Posts: 524
Reply with quote  #25 
Quote:
Originally Posted by sandbagger
What is in there is pretty good, you could add a bit if you have it handy. You don't want so much that you block the port though.

__________________
Kevin
Motor City Custom Audio
http://motorcitycustomaudio.com/
SoCalWJS

Registered:
Posts: 12
Reply with quote  #26 
I put the fiberglass back in place and put in a couple of handfulls of polyfill in before I buttoned it back up.

Everything seems to be working. I definitely have enough bass now - need to spend some time getting everything dialed in.
busahaya03

Registered:
Posts: 4
Reply with quote  #27 
Oddly enough my driver lined up quite well with the existing holes. I'm likeing the Turbo very much that I am considering getting a second one now lol

jhan1000

Registered:
Posts: 8
Reply with quote  #28 
I was confused with the instructions where it says "The Rubber Gasket on the new driver is NOT used, I leave it on for shipping only to help protect the driver."

I was wondering if this was the gasket that the pic (with arrow) is referring to you.  I was confused because the there are screw holes in the rubber gasket and seemed that it was part of the driver.



New Driver 1.jpg      


sandbagger

Avatar / Picture

Moderator
Registered:
Posts: 524
Reply with quote  #29 
Yep that is the gasket to remove, they normally dont fit but sounds like yours did [smile] 

I just replied to your email. 

__________________
Kevin
Motor City Custom Audio
http://motorcitycustomaudio.com/
jhan1000

Registered:
Posts: 8
Reply with quote  #30 
Thanks Kevin for the prompt response!
jhan1000

Registered:
Posts: 8
Reply with quote  #31 
I took the plunge and bought two Turbos.  I just wanted to share what not to do. [smile]  

First, I did not remove the rubber gasket. Fortunately, the woofer fits fine in the enclosure, but this may not be the case for others.

Second, there are hurricane nuts (or T-nuts) behind the face plate where the screws insert.  When placing the face plate screws, do not push too hard... Otherwise, the hurricane nuts may disengage from the wood and the face plate screws will not fasten.  I learned this the hard way. [eek]


Previous Topic | Next Topic
Print
Reply

Quick Navigation:

Easily create a Forum Website with Website Toolbox.