Ok, I was going to email this out with each kit, but thought this might work better. I will post pictures later, but its pretty straight forward and really wont need them.
Some of this might be easier with a helper.
The Rubber Gasket on the new driver is NOT used, I leave it on for shipping only to help protect the driver
1. place sub on its back. remove the 4 hex screws holding the face plate. There are 4 rubber washers between the face plate and the sub front, you will be replacing these with the nylon spacers provided.
2. Remove the 8 screws holding the driver in. This brings us to probably the hardest part, getting the driver out. Since this driver is a bit lighter than the new one, you can generally use a small screw driver and lift the edge and then get you finger under it. or you can put something down to protect the edge and slide the screwdriver under it. If none of this works you can try placing the driver face down on the carpet or blanket and tap on the cabinet to get it loose.
3. Lift the driver up and cut the wires. (you could also remove the amp first and just disconnect the wires from the amp.)
4. Place the sub on its face. Remove all the screws holding in the amp and adjustment plates.
IF either of the plates are hard to remove try using a razor blade and cut around the edge.
5. Remove the top plate and disconnect the ribbon cable connected to it
6. Remove amp, disconnecting the ribbon cable that goes to the top plate and then pulling the speaker leads out of the hole.
7. Pull the ribbon cable out, you might have to fold the connector on one end over to get it through.
8. Make all sealing surfaces flat as the screws will have pulled up some MDF up into the holes. This is easily done with either sand paper, a large drill bit or countersink bit to just touch the holes, or even a razor knife. It doesn't have to be perfect flat, just close as you will be putting gasket material down.
9. Take the thin gasket material and place it around the rear plate holes.
10. Place the top plate in place and use the 6 small screws, be careful not to over-tighten and stripping the threads out of the wood. If you find any screws that will not tighten, a wood toothpick our match stick can be placed in the hole and then the screw will tighten.
11. Take the bottom plate and install the binding posts , attach the wires. Then place the wire through the bottom hole, make sure the wire is inside, then screw the plate down, again do not over-tighten, just good and snug should be fine.
12. Place the sub on its back, placing something under it to protect the binding posts.
13. Take the wider gasket material and place it on the cabinet first flattening the area around the old screw holes a knife or razor blade works good for this.
14. This is where some help would be nice, to make the connections to the driver. Either have someone connect the wires as you hold the driver above the hole or place it on the face of the cabinet with something under it to protect the finish. Connect the White wire to the red binding post and the Black to the Black post.
15. Place the driver in the hole. Yea easier said than done I generally sit one side down and then with one hand holding the opposite side lower it till I am about 2" from the surface, then very quickly and carefully pull my fingers out and let it drop. When you do this, you want to rotate the driver so the screw holes do not line up with existing holes.
16. You can now move the driver around to center it in the opening, the hex key used on the face plate is normally about the right size to even the gap around the driver. You will also want to drop the face plate on with the spacers and screws to make sure you are centered, you might also need to rotate the faceplate 180 as they are not all centered either.
17. Screw the driver down, again tight is good, but not so tight you strip the holes out.
18. The hard part is done now.
19. Place the amp in your desired location, and hook up speaker wire. I would recommend using 14g wire for short runs or 12g for long runs, and you can use either of the 2 pairs of binding posts on the rear of the amp, it does not matter.
20. Switch setting on the rear of the amp:
Subsonic filter: doesnt matter as it is internally set.
Bass Boost: Set to off, it is unmodified so its +3db@25hz
Remote Turn On: Set it to your choice.
21. Front Settings: Gain, I have found that about 10 o'clock should be close. FREQ, only works if using the L/R inputs and does nothing if using the LFE input, but set to 200hz if it amuses you. Phase, Start with it at zero, you will have to adjust based on individual settings.
22. EQ, as far as initially I would zero it out, I like to do this by setting the FREQ and BANDWIDTH as low as possible, and setting the level to zero, I have found by testing that zero isn't exactly zero and needs to be just a tiny bit lower.(as in about -1)
I think that should just about do it. If anyone has any other tips or think they have a better way to do something feel free to post it up along with any questions.